History of Our Parish
Parish of Ardkeen (Kircubbin)
From Mass Rock to Mass Shelter – A Short History
by Joseph Clint
The recorded history of our parish really begins with the arrival of the Anglo-Norman John de Courcy, “the conqueror of Ulster”. De Courcy first came to Ireland in 1177 at the command of Henry II, who had been encouraged by Pope Adrian IV (1154 – 1159 – Nicholas Breakspeare, an English-born Pope) in 1155, in his Bull, Laudabiliter, to make Ireland an English fiefdom. De Courcy’s actions eventually stretched the English Pale beyond Dunluce on the North Coast.
Although an adventurer and a warrior, he was also very devout. It is recorded that whenever he achieved victory in battle or success in his affairs, he would credit and give thanks to God. He was responsible for founding three Benedictine Abbeys in Downpatrick, a Dominican Abbey at Carlingford, Abbeys at Nendrum, and also a Benedictine Abbey called locally St Andres or Black Abbey near Inishargy, founded in 1218. There is no trace remaining of Black Abbey apart from the downland and road names.
Grey Abbey
The Village of Greyabbey, named after the monastery now in ruins, lies at the northern end of our parish. The Grey Abbey was founded in 1193 by Aifreca (also known as Africa), wife of John de Courcy. She brought monks from the Cistercian Abbey of Holm Cultural in Cumbria to establish a community in Greyabbey. The Cistercians first arrived in Ireland in 1142 at the invitation of St Malachy, founding a monastery at Mellifont in County Meath.
Cistercians aimed at a hidden and silent life, living by the simple rule of St Benedict. The monasteries were to be situated in remote locations, and the monks were expected to be self-sufficient by working on the monastic land themselves; therefore, a sizeable estate and access to fresh water were necessary. Life was austere and silent, dedicated to prayer and work. Community prayer was divided into seven periods each day, beginning at 2am, and involved chanting the Divine Office (psalms and readings); there was also the Conventual (community) Mass each day.
Ardkeen
When de Courcy first arrived in Ireland, he brought 22 Knights with him, including William le Suavage (Savage). After de Courcy’s conquest of Ulster, it was le Suavage who, in 1180, constructed a strong castle on a drumlin on the eastern side of Strangford Lough, west of the present junction of the Rowreagh and Loughdoo roads, in the area known as Ardkeen. In Irish, Ard-Caoin means “a pleasant height” (locally known as Castle Hill).
It was the site of an ancient Celtic route inhabited for thousands of years. Followers of St Patrick are believed to be responsible for the old church on the hillside, where William le Suavage built a church dedicated to St Mary. It is noted in the taxation records of Pope Nicholas IV (1288 – 1291) on 26th May 1304.
Like the monastery further north along the shore at Greyabbey, this Church was used for over two centuries during which years le Suavage and his descendants held Castle Hill against the native forces. Following the English Reformation, St Mary’s Ardkeen became a place of worship of the established Church. It is presumed that those who wished remain faithful to the Catholic Faith were obliged to worship elsewhere.
In 1621, it was recorded that the Church was in ruins. It is unclear whether that resulted from the weather or political unrest. In 1761, it was sufficiently restored for the Church of Ireland to hold a service there for the first time in almost a century. However, its exposed location necessitated continuous repairs to the roof. Eventually, the congregation abandoned it in favour of the new Christ Church, located a few miles away at the quarter, in the Kirkistown townland, in 1847.
St Patrick’s, Lisbane
It has been recorded that, in 1703, Fr Richard McTeggart “stood at the Mass rock in Ballycran.” The following year, 1704, (in which the Church of Ireland, St Andrew’s, Balligan was erected) the “Act of Registration of Popish clergy” was passed. Among those registered at Downpatrick was the same Fr Richard McTeggart, aged 44 and residing at Lisbane, close to the Saltwater Brig where the Blackstaff River meets Lough Cuan.
St Mary, Star of the Sea, Nunsquarter
As the 19th Century progressed, the Catholic population of the Ards increased. More ands more parishioners travelled from Kircubbin, Inishargy, Greyabbey, Killyvolgan etc., to the parish church of St Patrick’s, Lisbane. A storehouse behind the pharmacy in Kircubbin was used as a temporary chapel. Captain Herron, who built the Herron Hall in Kircubbin, owned this building.
St Joseph’s, Ballycran
The present parish of Ardkeen, dating from 1866, stretches from the south wall of Mount Stewart Estate, on the northern side of Greyabbey, to Ardkeen corner at the junction of Rowreagh Road and Loughdoo Road, on the way to Portaferry; and from Ballywalter round the Irish Sea coast as far as Cloughey. The present church at Lisbane had been in use for almost a century and now was too small for the population. There was a need for a larger church, schools, and a priest’s residence.
21st Century
In more recent times, while Fr Neeson was Parish Priest (2009 – 2018), further alterations and renovations were carried out at St Mary’s, while major refurbishment took place at St Joseph’s. The increasing awareness of the needs of the disabled and elderly in public buildings was central in these new plans.
St Mary’s was closed from February 2011 until October of that year, while the two parochial halls and house were demolished, and the car park was extended to provide much-needed extra parking space. A new boiler house and external toilet were built, along with a gently sloping walkway, extending from the rear entrance to the grounds, along the back of the church to the main porch, providing access for the disabled. The steps at the front were replaced, while internally the Sacristy was re-modelled to Gove more privacy and space, and a new confessional was installed. H D McCullough & Sons Ltd., Kircubbin carried out the work. Sunday morning Mass was celebrated in St Mary’s Primary School during this time.
St Joseph’s was closed in January 2014, for over three years, while refurbishment was carried out. The outside of the building, including the spire, was enclosed by scaffolding while the stonework was re-pointed, leaded windows were removed and restored, and re-roofed with 7,000 new, “Bangor Blue” slates. The interior walls were dry-lined, a new gas-fired central heating system was installed and a rear porch extension, with a toilet, was built to allow disabled access. Moss Construction (NI) Ltd., and Armagh were the main contractors for the project. The church was reopened on 19th March 2017 – the feast day of St Joseph – by Bishop Noel Treanor.
318 years after Fr Richard McTeggart “stood at the Mass Rock in Ballycran,” there were some “Drive-in” services in the car park at St Joseph’s due to COVID-19 restrictions due to the pandemic (2020 – 2023). Fr Anthony Alexander, Parish Priest (2019 – 2023), celebrated Mass in a “Mass Shelter” made of wood and Perspex beside the short driveway leading to the parochial house. These Masses and safe gatherings provided necessary spiritual and community outreach and support at a difficult time.
Fr Anthony, alongside his twin brother Fr Paul Alexander (Parish Priest of Saul), retired from active ministry in August 2023. Fr Robert Sloan, a native of Newcastle, County Down, was appointed Administrator of the Parish by Bishop Donal McKeown, Bishop of Derry and Apostolic Administrator of Down and Connor. Bishop Alan McGuckian SJ, the new Bishop of Down and Connor, installed Fr Robert as Parish Priest at the Sunday Mass on 5th May 2024 in St Joseph’s, Ballycran.
Parish Priests and Curates
Over the years, many have faithfully served our Parish. See the full list of Priests and Curates.